12 June - 17 July Around and about the Tioman Islands, Malaysia Back to Malaysia East Coast Cruise 2005
12 Jun 05 Tekek to Salang
We enjoyed the shopping (duty free!) and restaurants of TEKEK for three days but were anxious to keep moving.
On 12 Jun we moved from the anchorage 3.9 NM north to the anchorage at SALANG.
A BIG MISTAKE!
We picked up a mooring being evacuated by a large fishing boat after first asking the crew if it was OK. Getting a 'thumbs up' yes we confidently moored and went ashore for some very nice snorkeling along the southern shore of the bay.
Returned to the boat and had dinner, watched a video then the NOT FUN began. We began rolling and pitching to the swell that was wrapping into the bay then were inundated by the Class C (at least 100 tons!) fishing boats which haphazardly anchored right around us ... one on each side, one ahead and one behind, all too close for comfort. About 0230 Terry fended off a fishing boat that had moved right against us. With their constant maneuvering and the pitching and rolling it was a sleepless night.
At first light we were underway to escape the misery!
13 Jun 05 Salang to Juara
The 10.1 NM trip around Tioman to Juara Bay was a combination of sailing and motor sailing with minimal seas.
On the southern side of the bay near a small river is a complex that looks like a resort, Juara Lagoon. This is an 'Outward Bound' type of camp for the United World College in Singapore. The director is John Amos who, with his wife Zanna, manage the facility. At John's suggestion we anchored as shown and ran a stern line to one of his moorings to keep our bow into the slight swell that came into the bay.
A concrete 'road' runs from the camp north to the town of Juara where limited supplies are available. Several restaurants and a small store provide the basic amenities.
A walking trail goes to Tekek (2-3 hrs) and a 4WD road (beginning of a paved road in the future) allows a 40 minute 'carnival' ride for two at RM70 (USD18) one way or RM120 (USD31) return.
At anchor in the bay Exploring the river Juara Lagoon
30 Jun 2005 Juara to Tekek
Departed JUARA for a 13.7 NM
passage back to TEKEK. Decided to replenish the lockers before
going north. Had 1 1/2 hours of downwind sailing and 1 1/2 hours of motor
sailing.
A common, though for the first time surprising, sight near our anchorage was the flights into and out of the airport. The landing strip is 'in the trees' along the beach. Must be exciting for the first time passengers!
We found excellent snorkeling around the small island in the south of the bay.
After replenishing the lockers we decided to check out some other nearby places as we patiently (?) waited for the southwest monsoon to kick in.
3 Jul 2005 Tekek to Tulai
Departed for
a 7 NM sail to TULAI ISLAND. Checked out the northwest
bay and the north bay, returned to the northwest bay and anchored. On 4
Jul did an excursion of the bay and moored on a double mooring.
There's nothing like a secure mooring to ensure a good night's sleep!
Rose caught squid from the boat most days and we bought or were given fish from the fishing boats which anchored there. There was good snorkeling along the rocks and a healthy hike to an aero beacon on the hill next to the boat. The beaches were good for shell collecting, burning rubbish and a mangrove swamp, with baby black tipped sharks, could be paddled through to a coconut grove where we guiltily collected some hearts of palm for the salads and feasted on 'cotton candy' coconuts.
8 Jul 05 Tulai to Tekek
Running low on fresh provisions we motored back to Tekek. We discovered on arrival that a pile driving barge was in position south of the ferry jetty just beginning to pound in pilings for a new marina! Not sure if this is good or bad news. Another discovery was that a videoke machine has been installed in an eatery near the jetty with megawatts of power in the speakers .. and doesn't stop until 0100! It's even louder than the speaker from the mosque ... hmmmm. Spent one day doing shopping the decided to GET OUT OF DODGE!
10 Jul 05 Tekek to Sembilang-Sribuat
This 17.9 NM motor sail to the islands of Sembilang and Sribuat was interrupted only by the need to jog around a fishing net.
The day after arriving we discovered that the bread we bought in Tekek with a 'sell by' date of 10 July really meant it! On 11 July it was completely covered with green mold. Then we discovered that the yeast had died ... after trying to bake some bread which then became bait for fishing.
Rose 'loaded up' on shells (destined to be placed in a concrete walk at her home in the Philippines) at the nearest beach.
13 Jul 05 Sembilang-Sribuat to Tanjung Resang
This 9.1 NM motor sail to an anchorage behind TANJUNG RESANG was suggested to us by Fraser and Karin on the yacht LUNA. It is well protected from southerly swells and has good holding in sand.
A half mile across the bay is the Jentayu Chalet resort run by Sharifah. Her cousin Siti provides transport to Mersing (25KM away) for RM50 return. Inexpensive meals, water and laundry are available. It is very shallow and has a gradual slope so the tides must be watched if you are going to carry very much in the dinghy.
17 Jul 05 Tanjung Resang to Blair Harbor
This short, 7 NM sail to Blair Harbor put us a bit closer to our next destination but the long distance to shore from a suitable depth for anchoring was a disappointment.